Friday, January 8, 2010

Tasmania Trip Day Four

Today was the day I had been looking forward to, the cruise up the Gordon River. This is part of the World Heritage Area of Tasmania, which is pretty much inpenetratable and there fore untouched and unexplored by humans. It is primal forest, part of the lungs of the planet.
We had the best seats on the boat, quite an unexpected surprise, so we enjoyed the whole experience even more. We were right behind the captain, on the Lady Jane Franklin 11, a big 20 metre cat. We left at 8.30am sharp, and Strahan faded away pretty quickly. The day was uncertain weatherwise, it being cloudy with gusts of quite strong winds. We were warned to hang on to our glasses when we were on the deck. Someones sunglasses did blow off and whizzed past my head.We were on the premier deck of the boat, so were plied with champagne almost as soon as we left. We tore ourselves away from the attentions of the stewards to go up on deck as we went through Hells Gate. It is a very narrow entrance to Macquarie Harbour, which is twice the size of Sydney Harbour, and the tide runs through very fast. It was a calm day on the southern ocean so we weren't treated to the massive waves that often feature here making it even more interesting. After a visit to a salmon farm, we arrived at the mouth of the Gordon River. It is hard to see in this photo, but we slowed right down as to not damage the fragile river banks with the wash. The water in the river and Macquarie Harbour is stained with tannin from the surrounding plants. This gives it a tea like colour, although it is very clear and safe to drink. It also means that it reflects the image of the trees and hills above it and when the water is still, it is quite a sight. If we had had a sunnier day I think the photos would have been more interesting. We had a cloudy day and it was a bit windy. Considering how much it rains here, we were lucky it was dry! KISA got to drive the boat once were up the river. Instead of a big wheel like ships used to have, it had a tiny joystick that you operated with two fingers. KISA loved the dashboard though! A washed out shot of the forest. It was actually much darker and greener. Was quite disappointed with the photos. Spent more time enjoying the views, the nibblies and wines they were handing out on the cruise. Was not paying much attention to the camera settings. Here we are on the captains private deck. If you are ever here to do the cruise, pay the extra for the premier deck option. Worth every cent. We stopped at a landing where there was a 400m deck style walk built through a small section of the forest. It was lovely, very dark and cool and very densely grown.The main trees are Huon pine, sassafras, celery top pine and myrtle. Plus tree frens and lots and lots of moss. This tree is over 2000 years old. The Huon Pine is one of the slowest growing and longest lived trees on the planet. They told us they found a log of huon once and had it carbon dated at 30000 years. The timber was till useable. It was this quality that made it so popular for boat building in the 1800s. The tree is now protected and they only use fallen huon timber for products these days. You can see how dense the forest is. We came upon a clearing where 4 snakes were taking the air. Luckily they were cold and quite dopey. This is a tiger snake which is the 4th most venomous snake in the world. I could have reached out and touched it! I didn't though... These are our seats, at the front behind the captain. This ensured we had a 180 degree view through the massive windows. After the walk, they served us a sumptous lunch featuring tasmanian food and wine. I would not struggle being a locovore if we lived here!Our next stop was Sarah Island, a former secondary penal colony. It had the reputation of being a brutal place, even for its day and predated Port Arthur. It is featured in the novel "For the term of his natural life" by Marcus Clarke.This is the ruins of the kitchens and this is a bread oven. This is the remains of the goal or solitary cells which were used as punishment. They practiced total sensory depravation, which basically sent men mad. This is the ruin of the penitentary, which was not a goal, but a dormitory for the prisoners. The island was the goal, there was no way off it. A few tried but most either perished or were recaptured. The guide we had was very entertaining and she told us lots of stories about the people who were here. Over the years the bricks have been plundered by the locals for building their own homes. Once back on shore we wandered over to a harbourside sawmill and wood turning centre. This boat is handmade out of huon pine and is a work of art. In fact it is in the gallery! It can be yours for a mere $15000.I decided against it and KISA bpought me a bread board instead. Being of Huon, it should outlive me! We walked back to our room for a well earned nap, drinking all that wine and eating all that fine food was exhausting!
We wandered back to the village in the evening for a late dinner and on the way back to the room were treated to a spectacular sunset.

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